Amidst the rolling plains of Sangri, Naxos, where the Temple of Demeter and Kore still stands in quiet dignity...
All Melissai (bee priestesses), experienced or aspiring, are invited to participate in Mt Nysa's reconstructed tradition of the Thesmophoric Mysteries of Demeter and Kore -- an ancient set of rites which have never been more vital for restoring the balance between land and humanity.
And at the head of the harbor is a slender-leaved olive tree and near by it a lovely and murky cave sacred to the nymphs called Naiads. Within are kraters and amphoras of stone, where bees lay up stores of honey. Inside, too, are massive stone looms and there the nymphs weave sea-purple cloth, a wonder to see. The water flows unceasingly. The cave has two gates, the one from the north, a path for men to descend, while the other, toward the south, is divine. Men do not enter by this one, but it is rather a path for immortals (Homer, Odyssey 13:102-112).
Will you join us there?
THE THESMOPHORIC MYSTERIES
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Mysterious and misunderstood, the Thesmophoria festivals of Demeter and Kore (Persephone) prohibited the presence of men and featured distinctively perplexing elements: piglets in pits, ritual swearing, pomegranate seeds and contraceptive plants, frenzied dancing...
These enigmatic rites of Demeter and Kore were supported financially by husbands and faithfully performed year after year by wives in at least 30 cities across Greece, Southern Italy, and Anatolia. The Ancient Greeks themselves believed the rites to be very ancient, perhaps more ancient than the Eleusinian Mysteries. Their wide diffusion points to an existence at least as early as the late Bronze Age, hundreds of years before the advent of the polis and its great marble and limestone temples.
What happened during the Thesmophoria has been historically dismissed as "mere" fertility ritual or even a tool of control, reinforcing a woman's role as wife and mother for the patriarchy. Yet the very name Thesmophoria seems to hint at a mystery beyond agricultural concerns or societal expectations -- meaning literally,
'The Bringing of the Divine Order.'
And then there is the seemingly-unrelated name of the priestesses who performed these mysteries: Μέλισσαι, Melissai -- Bees (Apollodorus, FGrH 244 F89).
What happened in the Thesmophoria was not merely symbolic reenactment. It was a carefully-preserved tradition of ritual magic from holy women of prehistoric times. It was understood as the tending of a neglected cosmic hive then -- thousands of years later, it is needed more than ever.
Next autumn coinciding with Pyanopsion, a mystery month of Demeter and Kore in Attika, we are hosting an in-person training for Thesmophoric Melissai on the Cycladic island of Naxos.
the plains of demeter and kore
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Naxos was an important place for the ancient worship of Demeter and Kore. Between the fertile plains and farms of Sangri one can still visit the Archaic Temple of Demeter, unusual in form and reminiscent of the great Telesterion of Eleusis. The island's most famous landmark, the Portara (Gate) is a striking remnant of the unfinished Temple of Apollon near the port, a place where abundant earth meets the purifying sea. High in the mountains is the sacred Cave of Zas, the place where the Divine Child (Zeus or Persephone's child Zagreus-Dionysos, depending on the tradition), was reared by Melissai, Bee Nymphs.
Treasure-rich museums, hidden nature sanctuaries, and winding streets of antique shops make Naxos a truly unique place amongst the landscapes of the Mediterranean. With the conclusion of the summer tourist season, the old rhythms of grain ploughing, livestock tending, and oral tradition emerge across the island. It is the ideal time to get to truly know this special place and to perform the most ancient Mysteria of Demeter and Kore.
Weather in late October is temperate and mild, ranging from 17-22° C (63-72° F), comfortable for hiking and dining out.
Scroll on to learn about the itinerary for the Naxos Melissai Training...
17 October
After flying into Naxos, we will check into our villa, relax, have dinner, and talk about the week to come!
18 October
We will enjoy a quiet morning of lectures about the Thesmophoria amidst the olive trees of our villa. Then, we will visit the incredible treasures in the Naxos Archaeological Museum, where the iconographic themes of the Thesmophoria are prefigured. Finally, we will visit a local artisan for handcrafted herbs and ritual items for our upcoming performance of the Mysteries. At sunset we will process to Palatia Islet, sacred to Zagreus-Dionysos, where we will make preliminary offerings and bathe the statues of Demeter and Kore in the sea.
19 October
We will hold our second set of lectures about the Thesmophoria at the Gerontoelia, one of the oldest olive trees in the world -- approximately 6,000 years of age. From there we will begin a pilgrimage to the Temple of Demeter at Sangri, performing the first phase of the Thesmophoric Mysteries, the Στενια (Thronging), with stops at the Temple Museum and also the nearby Sanctuary of Dionysos dating back to Mycenaean times.
20 october
As Helios breaks the horizon we will perform the second phase of the Thesmophoric Mysteries, the Ἄνοδος (Ascent) of Mount Zas, the highest peak in the Cyclades. As we climb the slopes we will stop to purify at an ancient spring of the Nymphs, and if lucky, we will be able to enter the sacred cave which is birthplace to Persephone's Orphic son, Zagreus-Dionysos. Here, the initiation truly begins...
21 october
We will perform the third phase of the Thesmophoric Mysteries, the Νηστεία (Fasting). During this time we will pay respect to local farmers and participate in the tending of honey, fruits, and livestock (including Demeter and Kore's sacred piglets!), as well as the making of fresh cheeses and breads.
22 october
We will perform the final day of the Thesmophoric Mysteries, the Καλλιγενεια (Beautiful Birth), at which point new Melissai may choose to be initiated into Mt Nysa's Thesmophorion and recite their oaths of consecration to Demeter and Kore. With the arrival of dusk, we will feast beneath the stars as guests of local families, learning the sacred dances and songs of Demeter's land...
23 october
Following the fulfillment of the Thesmophoric Mysteries, we will rest and reflect together within a hidden sanctuary of the Nymphs, dedicating votives and making offerings of thanks to the land, the Thesmophoroi, and the locals who have welcomed us into this millennia-old way of living.
24 october
We will drive back to the airport, bidding farewell to Naxos and wrapping up our beautiful time together!
We will stay in a private villa overlooking the sea and countryside, a property managed with hospitable pride and ecological care by locals. Shared room option (2 twin beds) and private room options are available. Free WiFi and air conditioning is included throughout the villa, along with coffee, water, light breakfast, and one other daily meal.
Many retreats prioritise budget when booking accommodations -- we do not! While we'll have plenty of sacred sites to visit, a good amount of the training and rites themselves will take place at our villa, so the utility and privacy of the space is important. Additionally, we understand this is a once-in-a-lifetime trip for many individuals and want to ensure their utmost comfort and safety. For this reason accommodations are chosen with great care in trips hosted by Mt Nysa.
accommodations
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honoring local land and tradition
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This is not a typical tourist experience but a reverent reconstruction of ancient mystery cult and an immersive week in the local Cycladic way of life, learning from, engaging with, and investing sustainably into this sacred land of Demeter and Kore.
Naxos and its agriculture are threatened by over-tourism and unsustainable settlement. By supporting local landowners, farmers, craftspeople, and elders of folk tradition, we truly learn to listen to the seasonal cycle, to give as much as we take from it, and to integrate the lessons of the Thesmophoroi from those who still tend their land. As Melissai of Demeter and Kore, we commit to sitting on the earthen bed of wisdom before going out into our own communities as leaders.
Emma (Canada) | 2025 naxos Pilgrimage
"This trip was absolutely magical! It’s hard to pick a favourite thing we did because the whole trip was incredible. I feel like I grew spiritually and emotionally on this trip getting to learn more about the Gods, spirituality and the rich history of Greece. It was so wonderful getting to experience it with other like minded people. I felt so welcomed and safe. Thank you so much Bria for this beautiful trip and the memories I will cherish forever. ❤️"
"It was such an amazing trip, thank you so much. It was so special. I feel like I've found my path in terms of how I want to intergrate my spirituality into my life with regards to Dionysus and also how and why I want to travel. It was a unique pilgrimage that gave me chance to challenge myself, feel seen and have experiences I'll remember forever. If I could describe it in one word it would be transcendental."
Lorna (UK) | 2025 naxos Pilgrimage
- Thesmophoric Magic: Melissai Training (online program). If you have already purchased the online program, please reach out to retreats@mtnysa.com so we can deduct this cost ($197-247) from the Naxos training cost.
- Daily educational intensives and guided participation in the Thesmophoric rites
- 7 night shared or private accommodation
- Airport pickup and drop-off in Naxos
- Private ground transportation
- Admission and tours of archaeological sites, museums, farms, and folklore experiences
- All educational and ritual supplies
- Daily light breakfast, coffee, tea, and water
- One other meal a day (lunch or dinner at the villa)
- Flights to and from Naxos
- One lunch or dinner each day - please note, we will ask you to bring cash for this purpose (estimate 150 Euros) as it is very difficult to split meal bills by card in Greece.
- Travel insurance
register for the traiining
5 spaces remaining
Shared Room | $3000 USD
$275/month with 8 month payment plan
Private Room | $4000 USD
$400/month with 8 month payment plan
$800 non-refundable deposit required. Remainder of payment due by 1 October, 2026.
If you've been on a previous trip/pilgrimage with Mt Nysa, you receive a $150 discount!
training cost
- You are contracting us to book international travel accommodations and services on your behalf; please understand that these are not refundable from vendors on our end. For this reason, payments are generally non-refundable. If emergency circumstances arise after registration that prevent you from participating in the Training (i.e. family death, extreme weather, national disaster, etc.), we will be happy to review the situation via email (retreats@mtnysa.com) to consider a partial refund. What constitutes an emergency circumstance is ultimately at the discretion of Mt Nysa; however, every reasonable and fair effort will be made to review your circumstances.
- For the above reasons, your deposit may not be refundable, even in cases of emergency and other approved refunds.
- In summary: if you withdraw from the Training and wish to recoup your full payment, it is your responsibility to find someone to take your space.
- We are not liable for problems, delays, or cancellations arising with your flights or ground transportation, nor for any loss, injury or damage to your person or property. We highly encourage you to purchase your own travel insurance.
- Traveling to and around the Greek islands, which are remote and largely rural, can be challenging (though it is intensely rewarding)! We ask that you please be culturally sensitive, patient, and adaptable, and communicate any issues or concerns you have as soon as you can. We will always do our best to help you feel comfortable, safe, and empowered on your journey.
Training TERMS AND CONDITIONS
FAQ
For shared rooms: if you have a gender/biological sex preference for who you'd like to room with, please indicate this in your registration questionnaire.
We also do not participate in animal sacrifice.
Fly out of Naxos Island National Airport (JNX) on October 24. We will drop you off at the airport or arrange transport for you.
In the months leading up to the Training, we will host a call to connect, ask questions, go over the flight plans, itinerary, and packing list.
